Tag Archives: Givenchy

Autumn/Winter 2014 Trends And Tribes

One of my personal favorite things is to see how each designer tells a story about their woman season after season. Where is she going? What is her mission? Will she be going to work in the city or lounging about in a coffee shop with friends? Is she a mother, a leader, an associate, an artist, an athlete, a minimalist, a romantic? Or is she all of the above? Designers empower women. For some obscure reason, every season we see similar ideas, trends, color schemes, and designs from the runways of New York, London, Milan and Paris. One might ask how does such a strange phenomenon happen every season? Do the designers secretly have a conference with one another and decide what will make them money with the coming season? With a dedicated amount of time and thought, I’ve compiled images (courtesy of style.com) that display the similar yet very different clans, trends, and designs of this coming season. Many houses catered to different types of customer all within one collection:  women who love glitter, women of the future, women of the past(mainly the 60’s and some from the Edwardian era), women who are rebels, women who portray themselves as an illusion of stripes, women who wear profuse amounts of blue and green, women who wish to remain cozy. This season, women were empowered as game changers in their environment by the designers.

Ladies Who Wear Illusions

bottega-veneta2

Bottega Veneta by Thomas Maier

acne

Acne Studios

alexander wang 2

Alexander Wang

armani

Giorgio Armani

balenciaga

Balenciaga by Alexander Wang

bottega veneta

Bottega Veneta by Thomas Maier

chalayan

Hussein Chalayan

chanel

Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld

christopher kane

Christopher Kane

creatures of the wind 2

Creatures of The Wind by Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters

dries

Dries Van Noten

giambattista valli

Giambattista Valli

giles

Giles

issey miyake

Issey Miyake

kenzo

Kenzo by Carol Lim and Humberto Leon

prada

Prada

_ARC0198.450x675

Blumarine by Anna Molinari

proenza schouler

Proenza Schouler by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez

rick owens

Rick Owens

stella mccartney

Stella McCartney

thom browne

Thom Browne

versace

Versace

Out of every trend this season, the use of line and illusion was the most used. I couldn’t stop smiling because with many designers, this was a reoccurring theme within the collection and I pose my previous stated question: how do the same trends and ideas pop up within many collections? Lines in a profound print, lines as a layered textile, pin stripes that are blurred and fade into a gradual gradients, herringbone print etched or quilted into the fabric, immense and bold graphics that evolve into a line, or simple lines that fall into an illusion, and more were imprinted into the minds of some of the most influential creatives. Do expect to see this trickle down into H&M, and Zara or Top Shop. With a trend that was spearheaded this big, the fast fashion businesses will take advantage of such a huge idea. I love that you get lost while looking into the lines and on some, your eyes begin to hurt. Simply brilliant!

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Alexander McQueen Remembered: An Ode and Memoriam for the Artist

Sarah Burton has indeed so kept McQueen's idea of avant-garde in mind...

On this day exactly one year ago… Lee Alexander McQueen killed himself. Found dead in his apartment… hung by what actually was his favorite belt. He was depressed and people suspect it was possibly due to his mother’s recent death and the fact that he was on drugs.  The fashion industry mourned for the loss of a genius. Countless magazines have done multiple spreads and editorials with his more recent clothing  ever since he died, it really has been a “field day” of a year due to his death. Alas, Sarah Burton (McQueen’s assistant) took over the label after his death. She truly sticks by to what his aesthetic represented with her first collection for Spring 2011. People were doubtful of the dedicated assistant  but, she did not fail! It was obvious that Burton had her mentor in mind when designing. Taking inspiration from the environment like monarch butterflies, snake scales, intense flowers and clashing all of these things into a couture-esque medieval array of clothing… she birthed a successful masterpiece. I think McQueen is looking down on Burton as she is taking over his label… and I have a feeling he is proud of her.

Notorious, theatric rebel... Lee Alexander McQueen

Back to the main man. Lee Alexander McQueen was always an addict for haute couture, I mean come on… he was the chief of Givenchy for a while. And he was actually a rebel while working for the infamous French couture house. He labored over his work for a good period of his life. Some of his early work was considered awful, he really did have to work his way to the top with many against him. A lot of controversy came out of his work truth be told. Known for unconventional runway shows and too extreme clothing. He had myriads of people on his back. Not every artist makes his way to the top so easy, you know? But in all honest truth… I look back on these so-called odd runway shows and I see stunning and inspirational surrealism. He had a diverse theme and always put something different on the table  every season. Was it too over the top for him to do these things? Yeh, but… isn’t that what makes any artist? Seems like all the great ones are surrounded by loads of controversy. Anyway, it took everyone a while to warm up to McQueen. Looking back at all of his collections… you never know if they were really tamed or not. I think some his most memorable moments in fashion are:

HORN OF PLENTY

1) Fall 09′, his intense couture show with all of the intense black/red/white gowns and all of the large puffy voluptuous red lips. And  his army of hardcore models stomping around the elegant pile of trash. This is one for the books, no doubt.

IT’S ONLY A GAME

2) Fashion Chess Spring 2005 for his ready to wear collection. I mentioned it earlier. But no one else in the world would have thought of REAL-HUMAN-FASHION-CHESS! He organized the models based on diverse loads of skin color, hair color, and the color of their outfit. Then at the last moment… you realized that he set them up into a chess board. Genius. The crowns on the two queens are a perfect touch as well.

WIDOWS OF CULLODEN

3) For Autumn 2006… the Widows of Culloden. A life-size Kate Moss ( who was stunningly draped/dressed in yards and yards of fabric…) hologram appeared and danced and people were shocked and amazed. And the entire collection. Truly inspiring and it had this literate sense to it. Beautiful.

SARABANDE

4) Spring 2007, McQueen was inspired by the classical and 18/19th century elegance. The man got a whole orchestra playing in the middle of the runway. This dress is renowned for its floral likeness. And the orchestra played Saranbande by Handel, his favorite song!

5) Back in 1999… McQueen held a special collaboration of technology and fashion. He spray painted a model with robots in a trapeze dress while having her spin on a floor wheel. McQueen actually hired a  model/athlete named Aimee Mullins, who actually walked on his runway with wooden prosthetic legs…. McQueen made those “wooden boots”… and no one knew that they were fake legs! She has come a long way with those legs… but that is for another time.

VOSS

6) Nicknamed the “Asylum Collection” for Spring 2001… he captured the essences and motifs of a lunatic. Stunning shoulder pieces if I might add….

DELIVERANCE

7) Ballroom stumbling and catching within a dance floor orgy for Spring 2004. Whew. Probably one of his more theatric/explicit shows!

LA POUPÉE

8 ) Back in 97′ he was inspired by geometric/creepy dolls with curving and sparkling headpieces. He made them stomp through water, which  wasn’t as popular back then. BUT he did with it good finesse.

THE OVERLOOK

9) McQueen took to doing a skating show. Ice skating that is, and very winter inspired. I am thinking he might of have a hard time finding models that could skate decently… oh and this was for Winter (no duh) 1999.

PLATO'S ATLANTIS

10) His last runway show before his death. Now Lady Gaga was actually featured in one of these outfits and he used her as one of his many muses. This show really reminded me of aliens… strangers with snake scales and intense heels gracing down the runway. AND, this was another one of his collaboration shows with a twist in technology. He filmed it with robotic cameras that followed the models as they walked down the runway.

These are not at all in favorite order. I enjoy all of them. And he has many more fashion shows that were extraordinary… these ones just stuck out to me. He was a genius to be reckoned with. Now… I know I could have given a brief history on him… but you can easily do that yourself. I wanted to bring together some of the moments that defined Lee Alexander McQueen as a fashion designer. He was daring. He had moxy. He took risks like no one else. He had an eye like none other. He is remembered through people like Sarah Burton, Vogue, Elle, the entire fashion industry. He inspired me. Having to work his way to the top… and getting crud from many people on his way there. He is remembered. R.I.P Lee McQueen. Rest in peace…. and long live McQueen.

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Filed under Art, Celebrities, Fashion, Surrealism