Tag Archives: Rodarte

Autumn/Winter 2014 Trends And Tribes

One of my personal favorite things is to see how each designer tells a story about their woman season after season. Where is she going? What is her mission? Will she be going to work in the city or lounging about in a coffee shop with friends? Is she a mother, a leader, an associate, an artist, an athlete, a minimalist, a romantic? Or is she all of the above? Designers empower women. For some obscure reason, every season we see similar ideas, trends, color schemes, and designs from the runways of New York, London, Milan and Paris. One might ask how does such a strange phenomenon happen every season? Do the designers secretly have a conference with one another and decide what will make them money with the coming season? With a dedicated amount of time and thought, I’ve compiled images (courtesy of style.com) that display the similar yet very different clans, trends, and designs of this coming season. Many houses catered to different types of customer all within one collection:  women who love glitter, women of the future, women of the past(mainly the 60’s and some from the Edwardian era), women who are rebels, women who portray themselves as an illusion of stripes, women who wear profuse amounts of blue and green, women who wish to remain cozy. This season, women were empowered as game changers in their environment by the designers.

Ladies Who Wear Illusions

bottega-veneta2

Bottega Veneta by Thomas Maier

acne

Acne Studios

alexander wang 2

Alexander Wang

armani

Giorgio Armani

balenciaga

Balenciaga by Alexander Wang

bottega veneta

Bottega Veneta by Thomas Maier

chalayan

Hussein Chalayan

chanel

Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld

christopher kane

Christopher Kane

creatures of the wind 2

Creatures of The Wind by Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters

dries

Dries Van Noten

giambattista valli

Giambattista Valli

giles

Giles

issey miyake

Issey Miyake

kenzo

Kenzo by Carol Lim and Humberto Leon

prada

Prada

_ARC0198.450x675

Blumarine by Anna Molinari

proenza schouler

Proenza Schouler by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez

rick owens

Rick Owens

stella mccartney

Stella McCartney

thom browne

Thom Browne

versace

Versace

Out of every trend this season, the use of line and illusion was the most used. I couldn’t stop smiling because with many designers, this was a reoccurring theme within the collection and I pose my previous stated question: how do the same trends and ideas pop up within many collections? Lines in a profound print, lines as a layered textile, pin stripes that are blurred and fade into a gradual gradients, herringbone print etched or quilted into the fabric, immense and bold graphics that evolve into a line, or simple lines that fall into an illusion, and more were imprinted into the minds of some of the most influential creatives. Do expect to see this trickle down into H&M, and Zara or Top Shop. With a trend that was spearheaded this big, the fast fashion businesses will take advantage of such a huge idea. I love that you get lost while looking into the lines and on some, your eyes begin to hurt. Simply brilliant!

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Editorial Films

Recently, I have been looking at how the fashion world has kept progressing forward through its choices of media: films. The concept isn’t extremely new, but plenty of designers, magazines, and fashion houses are joining the trend and creating editorial films along with fashion editorials. Now… I have a few to share. I will go from least favorite… to favorite.

4. The Tale of a Fairy – Chanel

Sadly… this was really dreadful. Karl Lagerfeld gave a stab at… directing? He had good intentions, an amazing art direction, and flawless clothing to sell, but in all reality (punnel, watch the film to get what I mean with “reality”) the acting and the plot fell short. The actresses were Kristen McMenamy, Anna Mouglalis and Amanda Harlech prancing around an ornate mansion located in France with male models for lovers and a fairy (Freja Beha) in their midst bringing the millionaire heiresses to and fro from fantasy. The acting will make any one feel uncomfortable and on edge. Although… out of all the characters I think Freja executed her character better than the others. The one redeeming quality of this fashion film is the fact that you can pause any shot… and bring forth an amazing movie still that can easily be seen as a photograph. Stunning art direction, beautiful clothes, but awful actresses and confusing plots.  Props to Lagerfeld for trying, maybe he saw Tom Ford’s work in film and thought “Maybe I can do something just as good?” Maybe? Watch for intriguing cinematography, and an ornate collection of clothing,  folks.

“The Tale of a Fairy” Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcWR8nqdqoI&feature=related

Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zz5x_4fbVuU&feature=related

3. Lanvin Paris – Alber Elbaz

A corny, but altogether enjoyable message to the public that Lanvin’s Fall 2011 Ready-to-wear collection is a smash hit! Featuring  female beauties Raquel Zimmerman, Karen Elson, and strapping boys Lowell Tautchin with Milo Spijkers. Of course it’s intended to be awkward… but they are having fun in high-class, pricy, and altogether beautiful ensembles! Who wouldn’t want to be in a fancy hotel room dancing with Karen Elson or Raquel Zimmerman to Pitbull?! I don’t give a damn if the models can’t dance like professionals either, I just want to be with a girl wearing one of those pieces and dress myself up in one of those suits. I thoroughly enjoy it, even if others don’t. It gave me a smile, which is appreciated every now and then!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KyG0xKTDJs&feature=related

2. Prada, Spring/Summer 2011 RTW

This one had me when the music started. Featuring the odd yet exquisite body movements of  Tati Cotliar, , Kinga Rajzak, Zuzanna Bijoch, Mariacarla Boscono, and Arizona Muse! This collection was memorable due to the stripes and ornate prints, so with the simple editorial such as this, is shined out brightest compared to the other collections featured last season. Great visuals and it truly does make the eye… dance. And the fact that I have been listening to this song by Ratatat the last week has made it a grand week!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBBGE7vz02s&NR=1

1. The Curve of Forgotten things – Rodarte (Kate & Laura Mulleavy)

Directed by Todd Cole, The Curve of Forgotten Things, deserves an Oscar for…. best picture! Which would be groundbreaking history in the film industry due to the fact that this film has no speaking at all! Featuring the delightful nonverbal talents of Elle Fanning, the fashion film made me think about what really has been left behind through the years. The film focuses on how old things such as farming, ornate interior furnishings, and quaint memories have been left behind to remain alone, still, and beautiful. To begin on a homely note, the music will take the viewer to an entire world, if only deerhunter did more scores for films like this… if only! I have an eye (so I like to think) for cinematography and this takes the cake. Every split second, the viewer’s eyes have the privilege to see film come to life by simply pausing it and soaking in all of the angles, colors, shapes, lines, and textures. Whether those shots be through the clothing, the landscape, the lone house, or Elle itself, well that is up for the viewer to decide. And those clothes that were featured… they are my favorites Rodarte has ever produced. Moving art that can be wearable for all sorts of women in all sorts of environments. What would  fashion be if the industry didn’t sell wearable items to customers in need of rich yet polished silhouettes? Nothing. Now, please, if you are reading and want to watch one of these items, and only one, do watch the link beneath. Your creative thinking will be enlightened.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jL5a0Z6MKsk

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Rodarte, A Rising Empire with Fall 11′

I know, I wrote a Rodarte post back in December. But I am jumping on the Mulleavy’s collection this season before anyone else does! The two sisters never cease to amaze me…. every season. Showing at New York Fashion Week, for Fall 2011…. they made a folk prairie girl gone retro. The most different runway show for Fall 11′!  They were clearly inspired by the Golden Hour and Mid-West America with cornfield fabric,  a Dorthy Wizard of Oz-ish ruby-red dress, aprons and pinafores with patches, corn/wheat field fabrics, floral lace tops, knit sweaters, elongated pioneer gowns, I mean the list goes on for the implacable collection! They also used storm theory within the fabric!!! Mid-West indeed!  All together, symbolic…. and the makeup? The faces were like a setting sun! Very gradient… very sky-like. And the hair… much like a messy girl living on the farm, but she is trying to look beautiful at the same time? Stunning. All together stunning. And I’d say honorable mention for going for the non-obvious this Fall. Fashion is looking at Rodarte with an even larger grin this season. 

You might be asking “A Mid-West inspired collection…? You off your high horse, Dan? This sounds corny…” No pun intended, thank you very much. But that is what any person would think… right? Right? Of course right. But no, no, no! I found the two sisters back in fall 09’…. and a couple of years later I have seen them expand into something even greater than just a couple of hippie designing sisters. They are starting an empire… and the Mulleavy kingdom gets bigger and better every season. And they never forget to emphasize the heels on the models. I mean… for Spring 2011 they added white/blue floral prints on the sandal/boot/heels, and such. Back in Fall 09′ they had over the knee duct-tape boots. For Spring ’10 they had eccentric leather stilettos. Now they add an entire folk-y geometric print on their boots on a few of the girls. Also having a simple black heel, with the sock peeping out on the Pioneer gowns; beautiful. They always deliver. Always. Kate and Laura Mulleavy… I give 5/5 stars for Rodarte, Fall 2011!

 

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Rodarte at it Again

Once again, Kate and Laura Mulleavy (Rodarte) put on a show to remember. Around a year ago…. I stumbled upon the two sisters. And they actually designed some of the costumes in the controversial movie: Black Swan! I found their designs to be charming, surreal, and most of all: fashion forward. From their shows with over-the-knee boots, tattoo arms, their candlelit show, to their Spring 2011 show of joyous art! It was stunning!  Rodarte always brings a breath of fresh air to the industry with every season. This recent show was breathtaking.  They started the show, close to pitch black, with their first model walking in the dark with the lights flickering. The model rebounded back to the start of the runway. The lights went up… and BAM. The first look to come out usually sets the mood and rhythmic feeling of the show. It was beautiful.  The gold-ish mud splotched lips, the swooped straight hair from the 60’s, the versatile prints. The collection was impacable.

And the runway? Quite the maze. Rodarte always uses the labryinth runways. Usually their models  walk through the sitting crowd… like the people are the hedges? This show, they used simple wood platforms (the ones you see hold large packages in shippingyards?) as the maze. The ending of the show had each model come out to a designated spot in the maze and stand still as all of the models proceeded out. The lights go down. The lights flicker sporadically. It felt like one of those movie moments where there is awful lighting in this sketch old building. Roaring applause is going on during the flickering lights! The lights come up to their bright point of pain. Like I said: stunning show. Not only have the Mulleavy sisters created ready-to-wear items, they have made art. With this collection especially, and all of their previous ones. Don’t stop designing, Mulleavys! You are both making my heart leap with joy  as I see your work through the seasons. Inspiration at its best, I do say. Keep at it Mulleavys. Keep at it. 

Take a gander at their website: http://rodarte.net/

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